RENOVATION HOME


THE FIREPLACE

the fireplace

There’s more peaceful and relaxing than sitting in the front room with the fire burning and embers popping. Also, there probably isn’t a single item that can be as influential to the room as a fireplace, so it’s well worth looking at the diversity of fireplace designs online in order to find the perfect fire place to suit your home and your own style. Though there are pretty a few electric fireplaces design that is looking good, real fireplaces really stand out and make a great focal point for any room. The problem is that most of us don’t know which fireplace design will look best, or how to build an outdoor fireplace if that is what you are trying to achieve. But some of these plans do not cover all of the safety issues that are involved or do not have the proper dimensions or footing that you would need in order to build your own fireplace. Making a mistake on your fireplace could become very costly. It is in your best interest to research and make sure that you learn how to build a fireplace from the experts rather it be from a person located in a physical retail store or someone who has a do-it-yourself television show such as Bob Vila. - Brick Arch/Lintel: The masonry above the RECESS is supported by an arch or lintel. Older examples are often of oak, whilst modern lintels are usually made of cast concrete. - Mantelshelf: The top shelf or ‘cill’ of the fire surround. May be plain edged or moulded. - Frieze: Also called a lintel, it carries the MANTELSHELF. May be an architrave moulding to match the JAMBS or a plain or decorative panel. - Jamb: Supports the FRIEZE and MANTEL SHELF to form the fire surround. May be of columns, pilasters or mouldings. - Hearth: A base that isolates a heat-producing appliance from people and combustible items. The hearth’s thickness is dependant upon the appliance. For an open fire with a DOG GRATE, you can obtain the substantial thickness of material necessary by providing a constructional hearth, topped with a decorative hearth.

Two Types of Firepits

the fireplace A fire pit is very much like a campfire in your backyard. It can be as simple as you like, or you can build seating around it. It is the easiest type of fireplace to build for the do it yourself-er. You will begin by deciding what diameter you want your fire pit to be. Once you have decided on size drive a stake into the ground in the center of where you want the pit. Attach a cord to the stake and attach a funnel with a small hole to the cord. The cord should be at least two feet long. This will give you a four foot fire pit. Fill the funnel with flour and scribe a circle around the stake, keeping the cord taut. Repeat the process with a cord that is one foot longer. This will give you the area that you will build the walls, which are normally about 12 inches thick. Remove the grass inside the small circle and dig a one foot deep hole with straight sides. Pour in pea gravel to a depth of four inches. This will help with drainage. Add three inches of sand to the top of the pea gravel to help contain the fire by protecting roots that may be underneath the fire pit. Dig a four inch deep trench with straight sides in the area between the two circles. Now, building the wall can be accomplished in several ways.

Building the Chimney

The measurements of a chimney are at the minimum 4 inches bigger in all directions than the flue. Wood, kindling and other materials that may travel up the chimney must be at a minimum of 2 inches away from the outer part of the chimney. Outside chimneys can be only 1 inch from the outer wall of the home. Code requires that chimneys be 3 feet over the roof and 2 feet over any other part of the roof that is within 10 feet. You can use a pre-cast concrete cap that has a drip edge and then use a silicon sealant on the joint that is between the cap and the top of the flue. Installation: Installing a pre-fabricated fireplace is easier and more practical. Follow the instructions from the manufacturer to assemble the fireplace together. Outdoor fireplaces are built just like indoor fireplaces except that you do not need to install a damper. Build the chimney as tall as you can and build the fireplace opening a little lower to improve draft, this can shelter the fireplace from wind that can cause smoke to breeze in. Adding a chimney pot can increase the effective height of the chimney. Don't forget to test the fireplace before finishing it off. It is important to thoroughly follow the instructions that accompany the kit to avoid serious injury or potential fire hazards. Once the fireplace has been built in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, the next step is to connect the gas line. It is possible to purchase units fueled by bottled gas, but for a more authentic looking fireplace, most prefer a unit that is connected to a direct gas line. The unit may be attached to an existing gas line or a new line may be installed; in either case, gas connections are safest when performed by professionals.

There are a few things to keep in mind

: 1) The upside-down fire will take longer to produce large flames, and it might not look like much for about 20 minutes. Be patient. The goal is to create embers that then fall to the layer below, which is why there cannot by any spaces between logs. 2) This is important: ensure that the paper strips are bent or otherwise prop the fire-starting squares/sticks a bit off of the shingles or layer below. If you don’t have this slight elevation for the paper to catch, you will have trouble starting the fire and get frustrated. Don’t let fire tending turn into another full-time job. Enjoy the warmth and reap the rewards of a better method, as counter-intuitive as it might be.


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